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I just finished the installation of this unit in my 1989 Corvette coupe to control the hatch and door locks with parking light and horn report. The horn and hatch (aux) negative outputs from the unit are only rated at 250 miliamps and the relays on the car pulled about 750 milliamps so I had to add in two trigger relays for those functions. The door lock/unlock outputs were more than adequate but you must understand how your particular system works and is wired. The instructions are OK but you have to be knowledgeable in this type of product to understand them. A wiring schematic for the vehicle you are working on is a must to find the correct points to tap or splice-in the wiring from the unit. I would not recommend the installation of the unit for the backyard oil changer. I have been working on vehicles about 50 years (although not professionally) and am a retired printing equipment field service tech which involved reading schematics to perform electrical repairs. With this experience I was able to successfully complete the intallation. It requires a lot of under the dash wiring so standing on you head in the vehicle is required and doing that in a Vette is darn near impossible; I'll be bruised and sore for a few days In closing the unit is a great addition to a vehicle without remote door locks but the installation is a challenge. That may be why the instructions states that it should be installed by a professional installer.Read full review
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I thought this item would be a great keyless entry system for my car, unfortunately it is too hard to install correctly. It does not come with detailed instructions on how to do it, Viper wants only dealers to install their products. I basically bought this item for nothing.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
I have installed items like this before so I had an idea of what I was getting myself into. Even so, the installation instructions are not very clear. I went and found a review on Amazon that explained in very good detail how this thing works. With that, and some other research that my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee was negatively polar (or negatively switched, how ever you say it) and buying the adapter to connect this Viper product to my Jeeps data wire (thus getting factory alarm and arming) I was set. It should be noted this is just the key less entry. There is no siren or locks, as some other products have. All in all this product is great! I love it! (4 starts only for the crappy installation instructions) Here is the helpful Amazon review for anyone that wants. I can't post a link so here it is: "This product has a lot of features and except for one (which I'll get to in a sec) they do what they say. The problem is that the directions of the wiring diagram are pretty vague. I did some reading up after looking at the wiring diagram to see what others said and a lot of the talk seemed to be about the instructions being just hard enough to follow that you really had to know your business to install the product, otherwise you should take it to a professional installer. Well, I have a BS in Electrical Engineering and I've worked as an electrical technician in manufacturing, and have read hundreds of equipment OEM manuals, schematics and wiring diagrams. I disagree with what I read. I think there are a lot of reasonably skilled do-it-yourselfers that could do this install with a little better instructions. Here's the thing. The wiring diagram states certain wires go to (several examples) Lock #30 common output, Lock #87 Normally closed, Lock #87 normally open (input), Unlock #30 common (output), etc. OK, so if all I have to do is ground (or apply +12v to) a certain wire in the car's wire harness and it triggers the door to lock, and ground (or apply +12v to) a different wire and it triggers the door to unlock... why can't the directions just say this wire (#5) is a ground (or +12v) wire, this wire (#6) connects to the wire for locking the car, and this wire (#7) to the wire for unlocking the car?? Well the answer is that automotive relays (hint: look them up on google) use a common terminal nomenclature. Automotive relays always label the coil terminals as 86(+) and 85(-), and the contacts as 30(common) and 87a(normally closed) and 87(normally open). Once you know that, their instruction will fall into place. Here you go: there are 3 wires that are labelled as "Lock" wires. (1)Lock #30 common output, (2) Lock #87 Normally closed, (3) Lock #87 Normally Open (input). Let me decipher... (1) Lock #30 common output means tie this wire to the wire on your car that when grounded (or tied to +12v) causes the door to lock, (2) Lock #87 Normally Closed means connect this wire to nothing (usually), and (3) Lock #87 Normally Open (input) means hook this wire up to either ground or +12v, depending on what triggers your car's locking mechanism. Once the system is all hooked up, pressing the lock button on the remote will disconnect 30 from 87 Normally closed (the "rest" state) and connect 30 to 87 normally open for a brief moment... long enough to trigger the lock, then it will "release" back to the rest state. This exact set of rules is identical for the "Unlock" wires. If you know this, your job, which is much easier is to either read a wiring diagram for your car if you have one, or do a search on the internet where some nice soul has identified the wires you need to hook into on your car. I really hope this helps somebody some day because I hate it when great products fail with poorly written instructions. OK, the last thing... earlier I said that there was one feature that doesn't do what it says. The Horn Honk output is supposed to make the horn honk when you lock and unlock your car. You tie this into the ground side of the coil of the horn relay and it grounds the coil, which should close the horn relay contacts and sound the horn. In reality, when I hit the lock on the remote, the light flash works but the horn doesn't sound even though the doors lock. If I hit it again, this time it sounds the horn. Never the first time, always the second time. Don't know why. No big deal... the lights flash so I can visually see that the doors locked. Most of the time you're right next to the car anyway and can hear the locks activate. That's it folks. Enjoy this product. "Read full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
A lot of thought went into making this a product that would perform multiple functions and be adaptable too many applications. It installed more easily than I expected. The transmitters are powerful and the functions on the receiver are easy to program. I bought a second one in anticipation of a future installation.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
Bought this one to replace a cheaper (different brand) model that was junk. Glad I did. The extra cost was well worth it. This is not a security system, but offers much more than just lock and unlock. Lots of programming options and features to ensure functionality in a variety of different makes and models. Came with both the operators manual, and the installation manual (which is not common). The manual print is tiny, however, so I sourced a .pdf version from an online seller. Programming actually worked as described in the manual, allowing me to configure the unlock signal for my specific application. Also a great value — about 40% less than most other online sellers. One sour note - the manufacturer only offers a warranty if it is installed by one of their approved dealers, so no warranty if you install it yourself.Read full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
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